The luxury industry is in a state of flux. The very meaning of the word is being called into question: for some, it translates as plush leather armchairs, secluded cabins, unattainable experiences and rare commodities, privy only to the ultra-elite. Others, meanwhile, particularly those of the digital generation, consider themselves to be well acquainted with luxury lifestyles, since their favourite celebrities are only a Snapchat away. The food that these inaccessible icons eat, the clothes they wear and the holidays they take are publicised for all to see, taking away the sense of mystery and exclusivity that was once fundamental to the term luxury. As international creative design and branding agency Pearlfisher states on its website: “Once elitist and just accessible to the rich, luxury has now [been] democratised to become the aspiration of millions and is readily accessible to the masses.”
It’s a unique tension of worlds – a struggle of the times, laden with irony. Photo-sharing apps are overloaded with private jets, Rolex watches and wads of cash, sacrificing the very veiled, coveted nature of luxury goods. Does something still retain its grandeur and exclusivity if it’s splashed all over social media for the entire world to see?
According to a report recently released by the Beverly Hills Conference & Visitors Bureau, the current digital climate, dubbed Luxury 2.0, will soon give way to Luxury 3.0, where luxury consumers will revert to traditional habits and concepts. This doesn’t necessarily mean that there will be a decrease in digitalisation, but rather, a natural evolution towards Luxury 3.0, as Julie Wagner, chief executive of Beverly Hills Conference & Visitors Bureau, explains. “Luxury consumers are reverting back to ‘old-school’ concepts, and are increasingly seeking out more original and authentic experiences that cannot be seen or bought online,” she says.
This will influence luxury markets worldwide, including the Middle East, a region that global management consulting firm Bain & Company ranked as the 10th top luxury market last year. The UAE, Saudi Arabia and Qatar are the region’s key economies, where luxury is ingrained in society: supercars casually roam the streets, mega malls are an integral part of the urban fabric, and savvy consumers think nothing of splurging on the latest designer goods.
To understand where fashion is headed, one must comprehend its current state, within the framework that the Beverly Hills bureau terms Luxury 2.0. Bain & Company found that as of November 2014, 40 per cent of luxury retailers were still not offering e-commerce services, likely out of fear that they would tarnish their exclusivity. While the luxury sector has been relatively slow in building an alliance with technology, most brands have now adapted, and luxury fashion has taken a largely digital turn. All over the world, fashion bloggers are regarded as “influencers”, and social media is playing an increasingly significant role in driving online sales.
Earlier this year, dunhill launched its digital home, incorporating not only e-commerce, but also an interactive editorial platform called The Club. Then there’s Burberry, which, under Christopher Bailey’s direction, has embraced technology wholeheartedly, utilising social-media apps such as Instagram and Snapchat to promote the brand’s fashion campaigns and runway shows.
Locally, fashion retailers are embracing technology, too. Dubai-based concept store S*uce unveiled its Instashop earlier this year, allowing customers to easily purchase products posted on the social-media app, and in March, Fashion Forward, Dubai’s own fashion week, was covered as an international story by Snapchat. There’s an argument to be made that fashion is currently at its peak, at least within a Luxury 2.0 context.
The bureau’s report suggests that in the next stage, Luxury 3.0, online experiences and products will not hold as much appeal for consumers, who instead will seek out traditional craftsmanship, bespoke branding and fashion that is less readily available for mass consumption. The report hypothesises that pretentious logos on luxury goods will lose their appeal, while quieter branding techniques will prevail.
“The rise of a more discerning consumer, who eschews blatant brand signifiers, has put new pressure on brands, like Louis Vuitton, to adapt their communication strategies and product assortments,” claims Wagner. While the Louis Vuitton monogram stamp was popularised in the 1990s, the brand has opted for more minimalist styles of late, still incorporating the logo, but placing more emphasis on colour, structure and texture.
Labels such as Céline, Bottega Veneta and Mansur Gavriel are prime examples of the new-age handbag maker, artfully responding to the trend that Wagner calls “logo fatigue”.
While the rejection of patent branding methods may affect the international luxury market, it is unclear whether consumers in the GCC will be wrenched so easily from their treasured logo-stamped leathers.
“In Dubai, there is still a strong preference for heavily branded products and this is likely to continue to be the future trend here,” suggests Hamish Urquhart, general manager of Quintessentially, a private membership organisation that indulges lavish requests – from making upscale restaurant reservations to sourcing exotic animals for private parties – for its members. “Brand logos in the Middle East, especially on accessories, are a way of displaying your social status,” he says.
Another aspect of the Luxury 3.0 trend, as it relates to fashion, is the industry’s increased focus on menswear, and bespoke, tailored garments for male consumers. As Urquhart points out: “Men’s spending is overtaking women’s spending, and the market will need to adjust to this fact.” Menswear-dedicated fashion weeks first took off in 2012, and are now permanent fixtures on international fashion week calendars. “Bold and innovative designers are injecting newness into the once-stagnant category, and the male customer is responding internationally,” says Wagner.
But the future of luxury concerns more than just fashion – food, travel and other such elements must also be considered. “Our members have generally experienced all the money-can-buy experiences available to them,” says Urquhart. “They have earned their success and the next stage for them is to focus on the truly unique experiences that will fulfil them on a different, and more holistic, level.”
The evolution of the food industry, in particular, is an important indicator of where luxury, as a whole, is headed. An increased awareness of sustainability in food is a hallmark of the future of luxury, says Wagner. “Customers will pay more to know that the food they are eating is local, organic and ethical.
“This supports the local economy, reduces the carbon footprint of the food, and ensures that produce is harvested ripe and eaten fresh with all its nutrients intact,” she says. This is a lifestyle trend gaining traction across the globe – even in the Middle East, where healthy-food start-ups and eateries are booming. “It used to be a mark of luxury to eat food from the other side of the world, whereas now it is luxurious to eat locally grown, healthy and organic food,” says Urquhart. “The mentality is shifting, and there is more of a focus on eco-friendly options.”
This could also translate into the fashion industry, meaning that designers such as Stella McCartney, who refuses to use animal fur, and is at the forefront of this movement, may no longer be so rare.
Travel, from vessel to destination, is perhaps the most emblematic illustration of luxury. But for those accustomed to dabbling in luxury getaways, the usual travel packages, five-starred and all, are getting old. “When you have the ability to buy whatever you want, then the desire arises to experience things that no one else can. Trips into space, for instance, are likely only to be experienced by a few people in their lifetime, and this exclusivity makes these requests so special and sought after,” says Urquhart.
According to the Beverly Hills Bureau, one up-and-coming luxury holiday trend involves opting for hotels that offer Wi-Fi breaks or the opportunity to abstain from the internet altogether – a stark contrast to most travellers’ requirements today.
“The ultimate mindful treat for certain cash-rich, time-poor, digital native, next-generation ultra-high-net-worth individuals is to go off-grid,” says Wagner. She says that, to escape the unrelenting buzz of phones and other devices, reclusive retreats away from “civilisation” will become more in demand.
The fleeting, available for-all nature of modern luxury is a result of digital natives’ fixations on immediacy and constant connectivity. “This powerful group is greatly influencing future trends,” says Wagner, “thanks to their devotion to smartphones and social media. They have the same appetite for luxury, but different tastes and values from their forebears.”
Digital definitely defines the current state of consumerism, and it may also characterise the short-term future. But the long-term prediction is that luxury will come full circle, with an emphasis on quality and craftsmanship, as opposed to barefaced brand names and factory-produced designer goods. Socially responsible, environmentally friendly and locally sourced foods and materials may soon be the order of the day, along with a refreshing digital detox. Of course, new generations may simply take to social media to publicise their new-found, old-school-inspired and at times off-grid luxury experiences. Now wouldn’t that be ironic?
Read this and other stories in Luxury magazine, out with The National on Thursday, September 8.
hlodi@thenational.ae
Confirmed%20bouts%20(more%20to%20be%20added)
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Tori Amos
Native Invader
Decca
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RESULTS
2pm: Handicap (PA) Dh40,000 (Dirt) 1,000m
Winner: AF Mozhell, Saif Al Balushi (jockey), Khalifa Al Neyadi (trainer)
2.30pm: Maiden (PA) Dh40,000 (D) 2,000m
Winner: Majdi, Szczepan Mazur, Abdallah Al Hammadi.
3pm: Handicap (PA) Dh40,000 (D) 1,700m
Winner: AF Athabeh, Tadhg O’Shea, Ernst Oertel.
3.30pm: Handicap (PA) Dh40,000 (D) 1,700m
Winner: AF Eshaar, Bernardo Pinheiro, Khalifa Al Neyadi
4pm: Gulf Cup presented by Longines Prestige (PA) Dh150,000 (D) 1,700m
Winner: Al Roba’a Al Khali, Al Moatasem Al Balushi, Younis Al Kalbani
4.30pm: Handicap (TB) Dh40,000 (D) 1,200m
Winner: Apolo Kid, Antonio Fresu, Musabah Al Muahiri
The specs
Engine: Long-range single or dual motor with 200kW or 400kW battery
Transmission: Single-speed automatic
Max touring range: 620km / 590km
Price: From Dh250,000 (estimated)
How to protect yourself when air quality drops
Install an air filter in your home.
Close your windows and turn on the AC.
Shower or bath after being outside.
Wear a face mask.
Stay indoors when conditions are particularly poor.
If driving, turn your engine off when stationary.
Company%20Profile
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Company%20Profile
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EMIRATES'S%20REVISED%20A350%20DEPLOYMENT%20SCHEDULE
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If you go
Flight connections to Ulaanbaatar are available through a variety of hubs, including Seoul and Beijing, with airlines including Mongolian Airlines and Korean Air. While some nationalities, such as Americans, don’t need a tourist visa for Mongolia, others, including UAE citizens, can obtain a visa on arrival, while others including UK citizens, need to obtain a visa in advance. Contact the Mongolian Embassy in the UAE for more information.
Nomadic Road offers expedition-style trips to Mongolia in January and August, and other destinations during most other months. Its nine-day August 2020 Mongolia trip will cost from $5,250 per person based on two sharing, including airport transfers, two nights’ hotel accommodation in Ulaanbaatar, vehicle rental, fuel, third party vehicle liability insurance, the services of a guide and support team, accommodation, food and entrance fees; nomadicroad.com
A fully guided three-day, two-night itinerary at Three Camel Lodge costs from $2,420 per person based on two sharing, including airport transfers, accommodation, meals and excursions including the Yol Valley and Flaming Cliffs. A return internal flight from Ulaanbaatar to Dalanzadgad costs $300 per person and the flight takes 90 minutes each way; threecamellodge.com
DUBAI SEVENS 2018 DRAW
Gulf Men’s League
Pool A – Dubai Exiles, Dubai Hurricanes, Bahrain, Dubai Sports City Eagles
Pool B – Jebel Ali Dragons, Abu Dhabi Saracens, Abu Dhabi Harlequins, Al Ain Amblers
Gulf Men’s Open
Pool A – Bahrain Firbolgs, Arabian Knights, Yalla Rugby, Muscat
Pool B – Amman Citadel, APB Dubai Sharks, Jebel Ali Dragons 2, Saudi Rugby
Pool C – Abu Dhabi Harlequins 2, Roberts Construction, Dubai Exiles 2
Pool D – Dubai Tigers, UAE Shaheen, Sharjah Wanderers, Amman Citadel 2
Gulf U19 Boys
Pool A – Deira International School, Dubai Hurricanes, British School Al Khubairat, Jumeirah English Speaking School B
Pool B – Dubai English Speaking College 2, Jumeirah College, Dubai College A, Abu Dhabi Harlequins 2
Pool C – Bahrain Colts, Al Yasmina School, DESC, DC B
Pool D – Al Ain Amblers, Repton Royals, Dubai Exiles, Gems World Academy Dubai
Pool E – JESS A, Abu Dhabi Sharks, Abu Dhabi Harlequins 1, EC
Gulf Women
Pool A – Kuwait Scorpions, Black Ruggers, Dubai Sports City Eagles, Dubai Hurricanes 2
Pool B – Emirates Firebirds, Sharjah Wanderers, RAK Rides, Beirut Aconites
Pool C – Dubai Hurricanes, Emirates Firebirds 2, Abu Dhabi Saracens, Transforma Panthers
Pool D – AUC Wolves, Dubai Hawks, Abu Dhabi Harlequins, Al Ain Amblers
Gulf U19 Girls
Pool A – Dubai Exiles, BSAK, DESC, Al Maha
Pool B – Arabian Knights, Dubai Hurricanes, Al Ain Amblers, Abu Dhabi Harlequins
The specs
Engine: 2.7-litre 4-cylinder Turbomax
Power: 310hp
Torque: 583Nm
Transmission: 8-speed automatic
Price: From Dh192,500
On sale: Now
Company%20Profile
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Company%20profile
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Israel Palestine on Swedish TV 1958-1989
Director: Goran Hugo Olsson
Rating: 5/5
Kill%20
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Greatest of All Time
Starring: Vijay, Sneha, Prashanth, Prabhu Deva, Mohan
Thor%3A%20Love%20and%20Thunder%20
%3Cp%3E%3Cstrong%3EDirector%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%20Taika%20Waititi%C2%A0%3C%2Fp%3E%0A%3Cp%3E%3Cstrong%3EStars%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%20Chris%20Hemsworth%2C%20Natalie%20Portman%2C%20Christian%20Bale%2C%20Russell%20Crowe%2C%20Tessa%20Thompson%2C%20Taika%20Waititi%3C%2Fp%3E%0A%3Cp%3E%3Cstrong%3ERating%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%204%2F5%3C%2Fp%3E%0A
Abaya trends
The utilitarian robe held dear by Arab women is undergoing a change that reveals it as an elegant and graceful garment available in a range of colours and fabrics, while retaining its traditional appeal.
ETFs explained
Exhchange traded funds are bought and sold like shares, but operate as index-tracking funds, passively following their chosen indices, such as the S&P 500, FTSE 100 and the FTSE All World, plus a vast range of smaller exchanges and commodities, such as gold, silver, copper sugar, coffee and oil.
ETFs have zero upfront fees and annual charges as low as 0.07 per cent a year, which means you get to keep more of your returns, as actively managed funds can charge as much as 1.5 per cent a year.
There are thousands to choose from, with the five biggest providers BlackRock’s iShares range, Vanguard, State Street Global Advisors SPDR ETFs, Deutsche Bank AWM X-trackers and Invesco PowerShares.
What She Ate: Six Remarkable Women & the Food That Tells Their Stories
Laura Shapiro
Fourth Estate
The finalists
Player of the Century, 2001-2020: Cristiano Ronaldo (Juventus), Lionel Messi (Barcelona), Mohamed Salah (Liverpool), Ronaldinho
Coach of the Century, 2001-2020: Pep Guardiola (Manchester City), Jose Mourinho (Tottenham Hotspur), Zinedine Zidane (Real Madrid), Sir Alex Ferguson
Club of the Century, 2001-2020: Al Ahly (Egypt), Bayern Munich (Germany), Barcelona (Spain), Real Madrid (Spain)
Player of the Year: Cristiano Ronaldo, Lionel Messi, Robert Lewandowski (Bayern Munich)
Club of the Year: Bayern Munich, Liverpool, Real Madrid
Coach of the Year: Gian Piero Gasperini (Atalanta), Hans-Dieter Flick (Bayern Munich), Jurgen Klopp (Liverpool)
Agent of the Century, 2001-2020: Giovanni Branchini, Jorge Mendes, Mino Raiola
WORLD CUP SEMI-FINALS
England v New Zealand
(Saturday, 12pm UAE)
Wales v South Africa
(Sunday, 12pm, UAE)