Lebanese designer Reem Acra was in the UAE this week to meet and greet with the fashion community in her role as a board member of the Dubai Design & Fashion Council, consulting on this weekend's Meet d3, the launch of Dubai Design District.
Having established her bridal label in New York in 1997, Acra chose the non-traditional route of running her company independently. It was a risk that reaped dividends with her brand now synonymous with ready-to-wear and ethereal couture andworn by celebrities including Angelina Jolie and Madonna on the red carpet.
What are you hoping to bring to the DDFC?
I’m hoping to help the new generation of designers, to guide and mentor them. I am an expert because I’ve built my own label single-handedly, I’ve been at this about 18 years, plus I’m originally from this region.
What have been the key takeaway messages of your talks with upcoming designers?
I’ve been myself and very frank. Specifically I wanted to tell the next generation never to underestimate the fashion industry, is a complicated business and very hard work. I also highlighted that it’s an exciting time for Dubai, and the region, it’s certainly the right time to be here. Another message was that designers should look within themselves, not elsewhere, to compete. They must look to the region for inspiration, instead of copying others or searching elsewhere. That’s how we become strong and how we’ll have a good industry. It’s all about being true to ourselves and that will take a bit of time to teach.
What are your predictions for Dubai’s fashion industry?
It’s just the beginning and Dubai continues to grow quickly in wonderful way. I believe it will continue, as the vision is unique. So, it’s hard to say how long it will take to build the industry, but something brewing and the timing is perfect.
What’s your best advice for the UAE’s want-to-be designers?
They must always be solution-driven in every aspect of their business. The trick is never to think you’ve reached the top and relax. It’s quite the opposite, once you reach the summit you need to work even harder to stay on top of things.
Are the obstacles to success any different from when you started your label?
Back then the challenges were multiple and they still are. Every day I experience them, it’s such a complex industry. If you go it alone, as I did, it’s not easy. Today, I’d say you should have a finance partner and someone with sector know-how is important because there are so many elements that will determine your success. So, start with a sound financial plan, understand your costs, your production and your competitors. You must have all that in place before you even start saying ‘I want to be a designer’, otherwise it won’t work. And believe in yourself to achieve what you want.
How are you mentoring UAE designers?
I’m trying to dig down, just like a psychiatrist would, asking the designers “what’s inside?” What are their pieces about? The brand’s DNA is inside of them, it’s in their mind, what I’m trying to extract it and see it in the designs.
Is there adequate training and resources for designers in the region?
As a council, it’s our aim to provide them with all the tools they need and these are not few. From what I hear, one issue is manufacturing. There are no clothes, of large production scale, being made here. We’re still at the very beginning but we’ll get there.
You established your brand in New York. Would you recommend designers launch in their indigenous market or head straight for a fashion capital?
That’s a very deep question and I don’t know how to answer it because New York is embodied within me. I’ve been there for 31 years and I’m very much a New Yorker. But you know what – luxury is one language, it’s not about location. Dubai has plenty of room for designers and someone like me. I love it here, I have to say, my heart beats here too.
Was there a defining moment when you realised you’d hit the big time?
Perhaps the first bridal show I did in 1999. I knew a big Saks buyer was attending and my focus was to make sure he came backstage and told me how great I was, and indeed he did. He said he had never seen a talent like mine before. I presented my show independently and knew I had something unique, I just needed the buyer to see that.
Bridal season is upon us, when will your collection be ready and what characterises it?
It will be ready in the next few weeks and I think today’s bride wants things a little sheer and quite organic. She is very modern bride and I think the collection is exactly “me”, I’d describe it as a sensual collection.
rduane@thenational.ae