As the author of a spa guide, I'm often asked which countries I find most replenishing on my travels. It changes, of course, according to my energy levels and state of mind, but I always enjoy Sri Lanka, an exotic jungle island steeped in Buddhist history that just lets you be. If I went back, my first stop would be the Amangalla hotel in the mellow old quarter of Galle in the south of the island, to enjoy some luxurious R&R. In this elegant haven, I'd pad about on teak floors, sleep in a four poster bed and sip tea in a planter's chair. When I was too hot, I'd cool off in the large outdoor pool, then read on one of the shaded ambalamas (day beds). I might ask for a private session of meditation, or do my own yoga in the open-air wooden-floored pavilion overlooking the pretty gardens. I'd spend afternoons in The Baths, dipping in and out of the hydrotherapy pool, cold plunge pool, steam room and sauna. The area is softly lit by candles in recesses and small enough to ensure that I'd only see one other person.
No trip to Sri Lanka would be complete without doing a full-on programme of ayurveda, the system of health and personal development which was reputedly brought to Sri Lanka from India in the sixth century BC by Prince Vijaya, the first king of the island. Amangalla offers three, five, seven and 14-day programmes, though my budget would dictate that I'd move east along the coast to Barberyn Beach at Weligama for my 14 day retreat, the minimum length if you want ayurveda to have truly lasting effects. Barberyn Beach is a safe and secluded ayurveda resort set in 15 acres of tree-filled gardens overlooking the Indian Ocean. It's traditional and slightly dated, but the staff are expert, the treatment rooms open at the top to cooling breezes and bird song and there's a large salt water swimming pool surrounded by coconut trees. I'd book one of the four studio rooms for the extra space, and bring my own organic toiletries.
Renewed and refreshed by my two week cleanse, I'd head west again to Koggala beach and check into The Fortress, which was quite literally a building site when I last visited as it was being turned into a lush, contemporary hotel modelled on Galle's historic Dutch fort. I'd check out the Lime spa and enjoy a spot of beach time before heading into the jungle to stay for a week at the eco-friendly Samakanda "bio-versity", a working organic farm set in cooling hills which offers a welcome change to the stark sunshine. Staying in the Lower Bungalow, one of just two, I'd enjoy free access to abundant organic tropical fruit, herbs, vegetables and salads and enjoy a daily traditional curry prepared by the owner, Rory Spowers, who used to be a chef at London's River Café. I'd also arrange a few in-bungalow treatments with the constant stream of itinerant and very good masseurs, homeopaths and naturopaths who often come to Galle from the West.
If I'd got into the jungle life, I'd continue to work on my energy levels after this on a yoga break at Ulpotha, a traditional working village at the foot of the Galgiriyawa mountains, where two- week yoga retreats are taught by teachers from all over the world. With no electricity or hot water, it's an ideal place to be close to nature - tortoises cross the clay pathways, giant red and black butterflies dance around lake pools and ancient vegetation shades stone Buddhist statues. I'd take my husband and sleep in the romantic lake hut, only reachable by boat, where we'd listen in wonder to the cacophony of insects, frogs and monkey calls at night and swim in the gigantic, fresh water tank early in the morning, watching golden orioles swoop over the water and herons sun themselves on nearby rocks.
To end my trip? I'd go to Galapita, somewhere I have yet to visit but which comes highly recommended by my Sri Lankan friend Puma. Galapita borders the Yala National Park and is reached by a wonderfully wobbly suspension bridge. There's a spa run by a 12th generation ayurvedic physician, but Puma's favourite pastime is to bathe in the river at sunset, when "you get the most awesome revitalising jungle smell". I shall look forward to that.
Caroline Sylger-Jones is the author of Body & Soul Escapes, a travel resource book of over 450 places around the globe where you can replenish mind, body and soul. Her second book, Body & Soul Escapes: Britain & Ireland will be published this November. See @email:www.carolinesylge.com