Hotel insider: Ham Yard Hotel, London

Checking in to the Ham Yard Hotel in London's busy Soho district.

A luxury junior suite at the Ham Yard Hotel. Courtesy Firmdale Hotels

The welcome

The Ham Yard Hotel is situated in its own courtyard just off a busy side street, with boutique shops lining the route towards the entrance. In the warm and colourful but demure lobby, I’m greeted by efficient and charming staff who, in no time, get me checked in. A jovial porter directs me to my room.

The neighbourhood

A short walk from Piccadilly Circus Underground station, the hotel is in Soho, but you’d scarcely know that once off the street. The difference between West End bustle and a secluded calm is immediately palpable in the courtyard area. Everything you need is on your doorstep, however: for bars, restaurants and nightlife, there probably isn’t a more densely blessed area of the British capital, while shoppers will rejoice in the proximity of Regent Street and, about 15 minutes’ walk away, Oxford Street.

The room

My fourth-floor luxury junior suite has a relaxing view of the courtyard. The decor brings it alive, continuing a theme that sets the hotel apart from the crowd. While the green-and-grey fabric wall coverings may divide opinion, nobody could dislike the adorable, framed children’s-book pages or an assortment of kooky seating, side tables and ornate modern lamps. There are stainless-steel toggle light/socket switches throughout and mirrors everywhere. The king-size bed is made for sinking into, dominated by a floral headboard. The tech is comprehensive: a digital radio and a separate dock; the smart TV comes with Sky Sports. The bathroom is equally fine, with a small TV embedded in the wall above the bath, a separate rain shower, twin vanity mirrors and basins, a heated towel rail and an “iPal” radio.

The scene

The hotel is a maze of endearing spaces, including a 1950s-style bowling alley, a 190-seat theatre, two private sitting areas for guests and an outdoor terrace with a piano. The corridors buzz with bold plant illustrations and pop-art-esque portraits of monarchs, plus other artworks including an amazing rectangular clock comprising 135 mini dials that converge to tell the time in numerals.

The service

Among the best you’ll receive anywhere in London.

The food

The Ham Yard Bar & Restaurant caters for breakfast, brunch, afternoon tea and à la carte dinner in the evenings. The only blip was the hotel neglected to make us a dinner reservation – by early evening, the restaurant was already fully booked. We sampled the breakfast, however, delivered to our room owing to an early flight: the picks of an imaginative menu were the wake-up special of chilli beans with poached eggs on toast (£8 [Dh44]), pancakes with maple syrup and the banana/oatmeal/yogurt/orange smoothie (both £5 [Dh28] each).

Loved

Almost everything, including an aromatherapy facial (£100 [Dh556] for 60 minutes) in the Soholistic Body & Beauty spa – but the decor is the real heart-winner.

Hated

The bar/restaurant booking oversight.

Verdict

Full of character, charm and cunning innovation, the Ham Yard Hotel whirls you a world away from the often-grimy Soho and the always-hectic West End.

The bottom line

Double rooms start from £372 (Dh2,087), including taxes and Wi-Fi. Ham Yard Hotel, 1 Ham Yard, London, England (www.hamyardhotel.com; 0044 20 3642 2000).

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