James Gabrillo introduces us to five exciting designers from the Middle East who showed at London Fashion Week.
2 Hind Matar
Another Central Saint Martins’ alumna, Bahraini Hind Matar spent her formative years shuttling between the Middle East, Europe and the United States. With an atelier based in London, Matar’s two-year-old label is known for clothing that is both delicate and striking. Matar, who also holds a degree in economics, says her garments continue to be influenced by her Arab background – a previous collection was inspired by “the glimmer of petrol blue”. She stands out for her manipulation of unexpected textiles and thoughtful use of oversized silhouettes. “Matar belongs in the wardrobe of an ageless, fearless and effortless woman,” she says.
1 Nafsika Skourti
After graduating from Central Saint Martins in 2012, Jordanian-Greek designer Nafsika Skourti worked at Marchesa in New York and trained in haute couture embroidery in Paris. One of the youngest designers showing this season during London Fashion Week (her first collection debuted in Paris only last year), Skourti livens up classic silhouettes with modern tailoring and bold prints. Inspired by men’s clothing, she prefers custom-made fabrics and textiles. “We simultaneously embrace glamour and anti-glamour,” Skourti says. By “we” she means her sister Stephanie, who formerly worked at Goldman Sachs before moving back to Amman, Jordan, to help Skourti run her label.
5 Osman Yousefzada
A designer of Afghan origin, Osman Yousefzada is famed for his strong architectural aesthetic and distinct sculptural designs. Soon after debuting during London Fashion Week in 2008, Yousefzada was tapped by high-street retailer Mango to create a Little Black Dress collection, which was sold in 35 countries worldwide. Clean lines and precise tailoring feature in his garments, which are often emblazoned with abstract art. Yousefzada, who has a degree in anthropology from Cambridge and was shortlisted for the prestigious Frieze Art Award last year, says he’s constantly inspired by costumes from ancient cultures. His biggest influence, however, is his mother, who worked as a dressmaker.
"I would often match the brocades and threads at the haberdashers to the different materials, or buy the beading for the wedding dresses she used to make," he says. www. osmanstudio.com
4 Havva Mustafa
The booth of London- based label Havva at London Fashion Week’s Designer Showrooms has been attracting quite a fan base, thanks to its beguiling pairs of shoes that exude luxury, but also toughness and discretion. After graduating from the London College of Fashion in 2007, designer Havva Mustafa worked as a freelance designer for various European brands, exposing her not only to the creative dimension of fashion, but also to the manufacturing and production aspects of shoemaking.
Currently a lecturer at Central Saint Martins, Mustafa says that being born into a family of third-generation shoe artisans stirred her interest in footwear.
5 Negarin Sadr
After an accident that put her in a wheelchair for two months, Negarin Sadr left a career in finance to pursue a childhood dream of becoming a fashion designer. Born in Iran and educated in New York, Sadr worked for Donna Karan and Benetton before moving to London to launch her own label. Specialising in updating the classic shapes and styles of the 1960s and 1970s, she says she is influenced by ethnic tiles, rugs and mosaics. Sadr is also a trained sculptor, which she says has helped her understand the female figure’s proportions better.
Supermodel Erin O'Connor, one of the brand's celebrity fans, told Vogue: "It's a really desirable luxury brand but it's also really affordable and comfortable. Negarin has really thought about the customer and made the pieces easy and pleasurable to wear."
artslife@thenational.ae
