There’s one look that summed up this year’s New York Fashion Week, for me: Karen Walker’s collared sweater printed with Roman clocks, worn with a pair of plaid culottes.
Maybe there comes a point where style references to past eras surpass being mere nods or hints, instead becoming overall themes of a collection.
For the most part, this is what happened at NYFW, as old elements were recycled on a wholesale level. Bell-bottoms inspired by the 1970s, cowboy fringing, prairie-girl paisleys – the whole shebang. Classic American sportswear with traditional design elements reigned on the runways, while progressive and edgy looks took a back seat.
Sadly, no autumn/winter collections were outstandingly innovative – there was more buzz about the new generation of front-rowers, such as North West and the Beckham kids, than about the talent of the designers. Still, some elements stood out. I’m talking design-wise, not about celebrity appearances such as Naomi Campbell’s finale walk for Zac Posen.
Two themes were prominent: Old Western undertones and Victorian vibes. While Custo Barcelona and Mara Hoffman portrayed Aztec prints, Rebecca Minkoff’s collection had a clear country-girl premise; BCBG Max Azria’s clothes could be termed “upscale Navajo”. On the contrary, labels like Reem Acra, Rodarte, Vivienne Tam and Zimmermann drew inspiration from a regal standpoint, showing high lace necklines and billowy cuffed chiffon sleeves.
With almost every designer incorporating it some way or another in their collections, it’s clear the turtleneck is making a major comeback. At DKNY, they were pushed up and exaggerated, hitting the chins of models; at Alexander Wang they tied in with the gothic theme, featuring leather and studs. Jill Stuart and Tracy Reese layered turtlenecks under sleeveless dresses, and at BCBG Max Azria’s show, every model wore a turtleneck, some in dreamy hues of soft grey and winter white.
While gingham was a go-to print for spring, plaids were ever present on the runways, from Altuzarra’s orange-gold-tone fur collar plaid coat to Custo Barcelona’s head-to-toe clashing plaid looks. Even Carolina Herrera showed a fur-mixed-with-plaid sweater-and-skirt set, and Red Valentino combined plaid shirts with floral dresses.
A fairly fresh trouser silhouette made its rounds, evidently becoming the it-pant for next season. I’m talking about culottes. Victoria Beckham created them in crisp white, while Karen Walker featured a printed pair. Tommy Hilfiger’s plaid and denim culottes were belted and cropped right below the knee, while Tibi’s were slightly longer and more ladylike, in charming shades of sky blue, lavender, white and nude, as well as a beige knit number.
In outerwear, we saw a lot of robe-type wrap coats from designers like Beckham, Derek Lam and Phillip Lim, perhaps a continuation from past seasons’ pyjama-cut trends. An even more common sight, as seen in the collections of Prabal Gurung, Wes Gordon and Jason Wu, was the thigh-high side-slit, a trademark of Angelina Jolie after a certain leggy pose of hers was mass circulated (wow, time flies) three years ago.
Aside from a few true show-stoppers (such as Tory Burch’s opening Oriental rug-like camel coat), New York, you disappointed. Hopefully the European runways will exhibit more excitement in the coming weeks.
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MATCH INFO
Liverpool 3
Sadio Man 28'
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Diogo Jota 88'
Arsenal 1
Lacazette 25'
Man of the match
Sadio Mane (Liverpool)
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Name: Almnssa
Started: August 2020
Founder: Areej Selmi
Based: Gaza
Sectors: Internet, e-commerce
Investments: Grants/private funding
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Libya's Gold
UN Panel of Experts found regime secretly sold a fifth of the country's gold reserves.
The panel’s 2017 report followed a trail to West Africa where large sums of cash and gold were hidden by Abdullah Al Senussi, Qaddafi’s former intelligence chief, in 2011.
Cases filled with cash that was said to amount to $560m in 100 dollar notes, that was kept by a group of Libyans in Ouagadougou, Burkina Faso.
A second stash was said to have been held in Accra, Ghana, inside boxes at the local offices of an international human rights organisation based in France.
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Our legal consultant
Name: Dr Hassan Mohsen Elhais
Position: legal consultant with Al Rowaad Advocates and Legal Consultants.
How to come clean about financial infidelity
- Be honest and transparent: It is always better to own up than be found out. Tell your partner everything they want to know. Show remorse. Inform them of the extent of the situation so they know what they are dealing with.
- Work on yourself: Be honest with yourself and your partner and figure out why you did it. Don’t be ashamed to ask for professional help.
- Give it time: Like any breach of trust, it requires time to rebuild. So be consistent, communicate often and be patient with your partner and yourself.
- Discuss your financial situation regularly: Ensure your spouse is involved in financial matters and decisions. Your ability to consistently follow through with what you say you are going to do when it comes to money can make all the difference in your partner’s willingness to trust you again.
- Work on a plan to resolve the problem together: If there is a lot of debt, for example, create a budget and financial plan together and ensure your partner is fully informed, involved and supported.
Carol Glynn, founder of Conscious Finance Coaching
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Final scores
18 under: Tyrrell Hatton (ENG)
- 14: Jason Scrivener (AUS)
-13: Rory McIlroy (NIR)
-12: Rafa Cabrera Bello (ESP)
-11: David Lipsky (USA), Marc Warren (SCO)
-10: Tommy Fleetwood (ENG), Chris Paisley (ENG), Matt Wallace (ENG), Fabrizio Zanotti (PAR)
The specs
Engine: Dual 180kW and 300kW front and rear motors
Power: 480kW
Torque: 850Nm
Transmission: Single-speed automatic
Price: From Dh359,900 ($98,000)
On sale: Now
COMPANY PROFILE
● Company: Bidzi
● Started: 2024
● Founders: Akshay Dosaj and Asif Rashid
● Based: Dubai, UAE
● Industry: M&A
● Funding size: Bootstrapped
● No of employees: Nine
Joker: Folie a Deux
Starring: Joaquin Phoenix, Lady Gaga, Brendan Gleeson
Director: Todd Phillips
Rating: 2/5
Moon Music
Artist: Coldplay
Label: Parlophone/Atlantic
Number of tracks: 10
Rating: 3/5
LIVING IN...
This article is part of a guide on where to live in the UAE. Our reporters will profile some of the country’s most desirable districts, provide an estimate of rental prices and introduce you to some of the residents who call each area home.