Fashion notes: Channel your inner elegance in a midi length

Ditch the maxi dress for the more practical, more flexible midi length.

At the Christopher Kane Spring Summer 2014 fashion show during London Fashion Week. Courtesy Catwalking/Getty Images

When you think of the maxi dress, ankle-swinging iterations to the Summer of Love spring to mind. As do over-tanned footballers’ wives, or ­buttoned-to-the-neck maths teachers. Lastly – and probably most offensive – are those trying frantically to hide from the infectious endemic of middle-age spread.

You see, while in print they sound like a wonderful idea – ­elegant, flattering and feminine, in reality, unless you are very tall and very lean, maxi dresses are downright difficult to wear, often appearing that you may well have something ominous to hide up in there.

Good news then, that the maxi is on its way out. So what now? Meet the maxi’s little sister – the midi. After a couple of seasons of treading water on the periphery, it has finally settled in, and is a ­surprisingly easy piece to wear.

Traditionally of course, the midi would have fallen at the mid-calf – the widest part of the leg, accentuating the dreaded “cankle”, which is possibly every woman’s worst fear. This time around, however, things are looking better. Try and forget about any preconceived notions of the staid 1950s-inspired skirt, for the current versions are actually rather modern. In fact, in its latest reincarnation, we have the option to play around with lengths in order to suit our body shape. Anything will work that varies from a centimetre or two just below the knee to an inch or so above the ankle.

In terms of shape, we certainly have more variants than the normal full circle cut. Designers such as Christian Dior and Roksanda Ilincic experimented with voluminous, pleated and tulip versions, while Christopher Kane played around with the pencil.

To get the midi right you need a style that works for your body shape and height. The key to success is to ensure the hem of your skirt stops at the narrowest point of your leg. This can be achieved by holding a piece of fabric in front of a mirror and moving it slowly from the floor upwards until you hit that point.

Your most important feature is the waist, so when pulling your own ensemble together, ­remember the mantra: volume on the bottom needs tailoring on top.

You don’t always have to go for a full skirt, though; things can ­absolutely be more streamlined if you go for a fitted version. Just remember that a sliver of skin on show will help to balance out the overall coverage.

In terms of fabric, a breezy chiffon is great for the romantic mood demanded, but if that’s all a little sweet, opt for a dark wool blend or leather tube skirt, all to be served up with a hint of film noir.

When it comes to shoes, heeled and flats will both work. Heels will obviously help lengthen the legs – although try to choose one that shows off the top of your foot and your ankle, so you don’t cut things off awkwardly. The same should be adhered to with flats; with very little leg on show, it’s important to keep things understated.

Finally, and I realise this may sound somewhat draconian, but tights are not to be even remotely considered. For unless you go for something ultra sheer, you will be hurtling rather rapidly toward 1990s territory.

All in all, the midi is not as stress-inducing as one often thinks. ­Invest in a structured, quality fabric, keep accessories simple and finish off with a swathe of red lipstick and nothing more. The midi wearer is classic and never overdone – an ultra-luxe grown-up not to be messed with.