Observing life: Culture counts in the UAE, so ignore the cynics



Is it just me, or is 2015 the year that the UAE’s cultural scene finally came of age? For as long as I can remember, the familiar narrative from creative types far and wide – in music, film, visual art, etc – has been that we’re riding out an artistic embryonic stage. Not quite a dry desert any longer, but always with “lots more to be done” before the Emirates can be considered properly habitable by thinking human beings.

I’m tired of such complaints. Sure, things can always get better. But on the basis of the past 12 months, there’s a convincing case to be made that we’re pretty much there already.

The world of art and design has benefited from several major new openings last year, including the launch of Abu Dhabi’s Warehouse 421 district, the long-awaited expansion of Dubai’s Alserkal Avenue, and the unveiling of hipster hub d3 (Dubai Design District). Each offers fresh platforms for creatives to get their work in front of curious eyes,

The world of music – my journalistic “patch” – is enjoying a veritable heyday. An enormous round of applause needs to go to The Arts Centre at New York University Abu Dhabi, which has made me grin like a baby on numerous occasions by bringing an incredible array of performance artists to the capital as part of its inaugural programme, from jazz (Rudresh Mahanthappa) to world music (Les Ambassadeurs), as well as dance (Ragamala Dance), theatre (Theatre Mitu’s Hamlet/Ur-Hamlet) and more.

In terms of classical performance, things have never been brighter, with 2015 signalling the arrival of Dubai Classics as a legitimate contender (2014’s Sarah Brightman concerts, we’ll overlook).

In the capital, last year’s return of Abu Dhabi Classics, after a three-year hiatus is now in full bloom, with 2015 boasting the first full calendar year of events (from the 2014/15 and 2015/16 seasons). And let’s not forget the continued contribution of Abu Dhabi Festival.

For alternative sounds, indie fans no longer need to reminisce about the time Black Lips played in 2012. The launch of The Other Side brought some of the region’s best underground acts (The Wanton Bishops, Zeid Hamdan) to town every fortnight, while Bad House Party reached out over the oceans to Iceland and the United States for debut gigs (from Astronautalis and Berndsen).

Oh, and of course, the range of A-listers coming to town – Ed Sheeran, Drake, John Legend, Blur, Iggy Azalea, et al – remains as strong as ever.

As for the world of film, 2015 was the first year since 2006 without the Abu Dhabi Film Festival.

But in terms of local film production, things have never been better. A record-breaking six Emirati films had premieres at last month’s Dubai International Film Festival – including the smash hit Zinzana.

But aside from those wonderful eight days – as special as they were – it left us with a painfully dry 51 weeks a year, with little but multiplex blockbusters to scratch at the cinematic itch.

Not anymore. Cinema Akil has teamed up with Alserkal Avenue to host thrice-weekly free art-house screenings (check the ongoing 20-week Where We Dwell season, running until March 4, at www.cinemaakil.com).

Elsewhere, the growing trend for pop-ups and mini-festivals continues thanks to the likes of Loco’Motion and Alliance Française, while The Scene Club has proved so successful it has switched from a free concept to charging Dh850 a year.

I could go on, but I’ve clearly convinced myself that, whatever the haters say, there is more culture – high, low and everywhere in between – in my life than ever before. There is only a small list of places on the globe which can boast a busier, more diverse cultural calendar than the UAE – and in such places the opportunities and access for mere mortals like me wouldn’t be half what they are here.

So moan no longer, creative types – 2015 has been a truly thrilling time to be living in the UAE. Here’s to an even bigger and better 2016.

rgarratt@thenational.ae

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Farasan Boat: 128km Away from Anchorage

Director: Mowaffaq Alobaid 

Stars: Abdulaziz Almadhi, Mohammed Al Akkasi, Ali Al Suhaibani

Rating: 4/5

if you go

The flights

Air Astana flies direct from Dubai to Almaty from Dh2,440 per person return, and to Astana (via Almaty) from Dh2,930 return, both including taxes. 

The hotels

Rooms at the Ritz-Carlton Almaty cost from Dh1,944 per night including taxes; and in Astana the new Ritz-Carlton Astana (www.marriott) costs from Dh1,325; alternatively, the new St Regis Astana costs from Dh1,458 per night including taxes. 

When to visit

March-May and September-November

Visas

Citizens of many countries, including the UAE do not need a visa to enter Kazakhstan for up to 30 days. Contact the nearest Kazakhstan embassy or consulate.

What is double taxation?
  • Americans living abroad file taxes with the Internal Revenue Service, which can cost hundreds of dollars to complete even though about 60 per cent do not owe taxes, according to the Taxpayer Advocate Service
  • Those obligations apply to millions of Americans residing overseas – estimates range from 3.9 million to 5.5 million – including so-called "accidental Americans" who are unaware they hold dual citizenship
  • The double taxation policy has been a contentious issue for decades, with many overseas Americans feeling that it punishes them for pursuing opportunities abroad
  • Unlike most countries, the US follows a citizenship-based taxation system, meaning that Americans must file taxes annually, even if they do not earn any income in the US.
The specs

Engine: 3-litre twin-turbo V6

Power: 400hp

Torque: 475Nm

Transmission: 9-speed automatic

Price: From Dh215,900

On sale: Now

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BOSH!'s pantry essentials

Nutritional yeast

This is Firth's pick and an ingredient he says, "gives you an instant cheesy flavour". He advises making your own cream cheese with it or simply using it to whip up a mac and cheese or wholesome lasagne. It's available in organic and specialist grocery stores across the UAE.

Seeds

"We've got a big jar of mixed seeds in our kitchen," Theasby explains. "That's what you use to make a bolognese or pie or salad: just grab a handful of seeds and sprinkle them over the top. It's a really good way to make sure you're getting your omegas."

Umami flavours

"I could say soya sauce, but I'll say all umami-makers and have them in the same batch," says Firth. He suggests having items such as Marmite, balsamic vinegar and other general, dark, umami-tasting products in your cupboard "to make your bolognese a little bit more 'umptious'".

Onions and garlic

"If you've got them, you can cook basically anything from that base," says Theasby. "These ingredients are so prevalent in every world cuisine and if you've got them in your cupboard, then you know you've got the foundation of a really nice meal."

Your grain of choice

Whether rice, quinoa, pasta or buckwheat, Firth advises always having a stock of your favourite grains in the cupboard. "That you, you have an instant meal and all you have to do is just chuck a bit of veg in."

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TO A LAND UNKNOWN

Director: Mahdi Fleifel

Starring: Mahmoud Bakri, Aram Sabbah, Mohammad Alsurafa

Rating: 4.5/5

City's slump

L - Juventus, 2-0
D - C Palace, 2-2
W - N Forest, 3-0
L - Liverpool, 2-0
D - Feyenoord, 3-3
L - Tottenham, 4-0
L - Brighton, 2-1
L - Sporting, 4-1
L - Bournemouth, 2-1
L - Tottenham, 2-1

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COMPANY PROFILE
Name: Almnssa
Started: August 2020
Founder: Areej Selmi
Based: Gaza
Sectors: Internet, e-commerce
Investments: Grants/private funding
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If you go...

Fly from Dubai or Abu Dhabi to Chiang Mai in Thailand, via Bangkok, before taking a five-hour bus ride across the Laos border to Huay Xai. The land border crossing at Huay Xai is a well-trodden route, meaning entry is swift, though travellers should be aware of visa requirements for both countries.

Flights from Dubai start at Dh4,000 return with Emirates, while Etihad flights from Abu Dhabi start at Dh2,000. Local buses can be booked in Chiang Mai from around Dh50

COMPANY PROFILE
Name: ARDH Collective
Based: Dubai
Founders: Alhaan Ahmed, Alyina Ahmed and Maximo Tettamanzi
Sector: Sustainability
Total funding: Self funded
Number of employees: 4
A timeline of the Historical Dictionary of the Arabic Language
  • 2018: Formal work begins
  • November 2021: First 17 volumes launched 
  • November 2022: Additional 19 volumes released
  • October 2023: Another 31 volumes released
  • November 2024: All 127 volumes completed
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THE BIO

Born: Mukalla, Yemen, 1979

Education: UAE University, Al Ain

Family: Married with two daughters: Asayel, 7, and Sara, 6

Favourite piece of music: Horse Dance by Naseer Shamma

Favourite book: Science and geology

Favourite place to travel to: Washington DC

Best advice you’ve ever been given: If you have a dream, you have to believe it, then you will see it.