WG Sebald - A Place in the Country
WG Sebald - A Place in the Country

All out of step: WG Sebald's celebration of the solitary walkers of German literature



A Place in the Country

W?G Sebald

Hamish Hamilton

Dh115

Eduard Mörike, the German Romantic poet, is more famous in the English-speaking world for his slender, gem-like novel, Mozart's Journey to Prague. In it, the composer's destination plays second fiddle to his mindset during his trip. Not only are we privy to Mozart's personal thoughts, we also get a glimpse of his creative processes. At one point in the journey he takes a break and, surveying his peaceful surroundings, wonders what it would be like to flee the hustle and bustle of the city for good and compose his scores with help from "Nature and her bounty". "If only I had a small property, a little house at the edge of a village in lovely countryside, what a new lease of life that would be!"

Mörike was not the only German-speaking writer to recreate the pastoral yearnings of a real-life cultural figure. In 1913 Robert Walser penned one of his finest short stories, Kleist in Thun, in which he reimagines the German dramatist's sojourn in Walser's native Switzerland in 1801. This story captivated the German novelist W?G Sebald, who was particularly drawn to the bleak-upbeat contrast of a writer despairing of himself and his talents amid the mesmerising beauty of the surrounding landscape.

Both Mörike and Walser are the subjects of essays in A Place in the Country, the latest collection of Sebald’s essays to appear in English since his untimely death in 2001. The book’s title is a quotation from Walser’s Kleist story, and seems fitting as most of the essays here touch on the typical Sebaldian theme of locality, specifically rural retreat, and the sense of sanctuary or dislocation it engenders. Sebald’s last volume of essays, Campo Santo (2003), combined thoughts on Corsica with illuminating pieces on Kafka, Bruce Chatwin and Günter Grass. A Place in the Country focuses entirely on people – five German or Swiss writers plus the artist Jan Peter Tripp – all of whom have helped shape Sebald as a writer. (Tripp, the only contemporary one, even collaborated with Sebald, his lithographs complementing Sebald’s poems in Unrecounted.) As with Sebald’s novels, each essay is composed of long paragraphs that unfold languorously over pages, sentences that incorporate English, French and German, and scatterings of beautiful and beguiling photographs – if not of the author under scrutiny then of people and places relating to Sebald’s many discursive tangents.

In the book’s foreword Sebald explains how in the autumn of 1966 he set off from Switzerland to Manchester with battered copies of books by Walser, Gottfried Keller and Johann Peter Hebel. Although these “hapless” writers found themselves at some point in their lives stuck in their “web of words”, they nevertheless succeeded in “opening up vistas of such beauty and intensity as life itself is scarcely able to provide”. This book, then, is a “tribute” to them, a paean expressing Sebald’s “unwavering affection”. The reader will not be familiar with every writer – Mörike and Hebel are not household names like Goethe and Thomas Mann – but Sebald as a guide speaks to the initiated and the uninitiated alike, entrancing both readerships with his lapidary style, searing character studies and blend of erudition and personal anecdotes.

He starts with Hebel, asserting that his classic Treasure Chest of the Rhineland Family Friend is "one of the purest examples of German literature". The essay is in many ways representative of those that follow. Topics serve as springboards for new ideas, trains of thought hold fast then waver and branch out in different directions. Suddenly close readings of Hebel's 19th-century poems give way to meditations on the fall of Napoleon and collapse of France, and how "from its smouldering ruins there also arose the new and terrifying Deutschland". The effect of the Second World War and the Holocaust on Sebald's generation of Germans is another recurring theme in his work, one he explored at length in the masterly Austerlitz (2001) and the essay collection On the Natural History of Destruction (1999). Its reappearance in these essays on long-dead German and Swiss writers is, in Sebald's skilled hands, no off-topic add-on but an ingeniously interwoven leitmotif.

Other stepping stones pave equally unexpected ways, taking us well off the originally beaten track. The Mörike essay (actually a prize-winning acceptance speech) flits from the author’s student days in Tübingen to Biedermeier art to comparisons with Schubert. In the Keller piece, Sebald highlights the treatment of Jews in his work before veering off to comment on the plight of Swiss governesses forced to find work “in lands far distant from their home cantons” and various “androgynous” portraits of Keller. The more obscure the digressions, the more rapt we become. At times that peripheral trivia is no more than an aesthetic side dish; at other times it feeds back into the main mix and provides a greater understanding of each writer’s craft.

There are two standout essays here. The Rousseau piece deals predominantly with Sebald following in Rousseau’s footsteps by visiting the Île Saint-Pierre, the island “paradise in miniature” to which the philosopher fled in 1765. Rousseau wrote much of his Reveries of the Solitary Walker there, and Sebald is given to doing just that – losing himself in thought and walking. Solitary walkers can be glimpsed traversing all of Sebald’s fictional landscapes. The Rings of Saturn (1995) tracks a character, also named Sebald, on a walking tour of Suffolk. In one section of Vertigo (1990) we accompany an unnamed narrator (who again may well be Sebald) on a walking tour of Vienna that is “without aim or purpose”.

The solitary walker returns in the best essay here on Robert Walser. Sebald traces Walser’s tragic life from awkward youth to asylum inmate, while attempting to critique his “literary fantasias” despite the odds stacked against him: “How is one to understand an author who was so beset by shadows and who, none the less, illumined every page with the most genial light?”

Sebald's riffs this time around encompass a portrait of his own grandfather who looked like Walser and a convincing case for Nikolai Gogol as Walser's immediate literary predecessor. Curiously, though, despite making much of Walser's peregrinations, Sebald has nothing to say on Walser's last walk, his one-way trek on Christmas Day, 1956, from the asylum to a snowy field where he was later found frozen to death. Also, Sebald mentions Walser's stay in Berlin from 1905 to 1913 but then laments "so little does he tell us about the German metropolis". If only Sebald had lived to read Berlin Tales, published last year, Walser's wonderful (and detailed) journalistic account of his time in the capital.

But the Walser essay reveals far more than it omits. Better still, as we read it a pattern emerges – a delicate, though discernible, tracery of links with the other writers Sebald has covered. Keller's frequent bouts of unrequited love echo Walser's voyeuristic lusting after chambermaids, women always "beings from a distant star". Rousseau and Walser both walked miles while lost in thought (Sebald even appropriates Rousseau's book title – Le promeneur solitaire – for the title of his Walser essay). Walking, water, war, exile, homeland, memory, musing – all themes and motifs recur again and again. References to Nabokov cropped up in each of the four sections of The Emigrants (1992); in these essays it is Walter Benjamin quotes that help bind. Towards the end, Sebald discloses that "I have slowly learned to grasp how everything is connected across space and time", and we agree: what started out as a collection of stand-alone essays becomes one in which each of the finely wrought parts subtly interlock.

In a 1993 interview, Sebald admitted: “My medium is prose, not the novel.” And yet in his foreword here he is somewhat self-deprecating about his essays, describing them as mere “extended marginal notes and glosses”. He was in any case better than he thought. Those glorious, multilayered novels are dreamy, at times disorienting, fusions of fact and fiction. These essays are also hybrids, a clever amalgam of biography, critical analysis and creative writing. At the beginning of A Place in the Country he reflects on the writers (“colleagues”) he has studied and comes to the conclusion that “there seems to be no remedy for the vice of literature; those afflicted persist in the habit despite the fact that there is no longer any pleasure to be derived from it”. It is our loss that Sebald is not with us to persist in his “habit”, whatever the literary form. These essays prove that if any pleasure was lacking in the crafting of them, a great deal is to be had in reading them.

Malcolm Forbes is a freelance essayist and reviewer.

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THE BIO

Favourite place to go to in the UAE: The desert sand dunes, just after some rain

Who inspires you: Anybody with new and smart ideas, challenging questions, an open mind and a positive attitude

Where would you like to retire: Most probably in my home country, Hungary, but with frequent returns to the UAE

Favorite book: A book by Transilvanian author, Albert Wass, entitled ‘Sword and Reap’ (Kard es Kasza) - not really known internationally

Favourite subjects in school: Mathematics and science

Fixtures

Wednesday

4.15pm: Japan v Spain (Group A)

5.30pm: UAE v Italy (Group A)

6.45pm: Russia v Mexico (Group B)

8pm: Iran v Egypt (Group B)

Manchester United v Liverpool

Premier League, kick off 7.30pm (UAE)

The bio

Who inspires you?

I am in awe of the remarkable women in the Arab region, both big and small, pushing boundaries and becoming role models for generations. Emily Nasrallah was a writer, journalist, teacher and women’s rights activist

How do you relax?

Yoga relaxes me and helps me relieve tension, especially now when we’re practically chained to laptops and desks. I enjoy learning more about music and the history of famous music bands and genres.

What is favourite book?

The Perks of Being a Wallflower - I think I've read it more than 7 times

What is your favourite Arabic film?

Hala2 Lawen (Translation: Where Do We Go Now?) by Nadine Labaki

What is favourite English film?

Mamma Mia

Best piece of advice to someone looking for a career at Google?

If you’re interested in a career at Google, deep dive into the different career paths and pinpoint the space you want to join. When you know your space, you’re likely to identify the skills you need to develop.  

 

TV (UAE time);

OSN Sports: from 10am

If you go

 

  • The nearest international airport to the start of the Chuysky Trakt is in Novosibirsk. Emirates (www.emirates.com) offer codeshare flights with S7 Airlines (www.s7.ru) via Moscow for US$5,300 (Dh19,467) return including taxes. Cheaper flights are available on Flydubai and Air Astana or Aeroflot combination, flying via Astana in Kazakhstan or Moscow. Economy class tickets are available for US$650 (Dh2,400).
  • The Double Tree by Hilton in Novosibirsk ( 7 383 2230100,) has double rooms from US$60 (Dh220). You can rent cabins at camp grounds or rooms in guesthouses in the towns for around US$25 (Dh90).
  • The transport Minibuses run along the Chuysky Trakt but if you want to stop for sightseeing, hire a taxi from Gorno-Altaisk for about US$100 (Dh360) a day. Take a Russian phrasebook or download a translation app. Tour companies such as  Altair-Tour ( 7 383 2125115 ) offer hiking and adventure packages.
if you go

The flights

Emirates fly direct from Dubai to Houston, Texas, where United have direct flights to Managua. Alternatively, from October, Iberia will offer connections from Madrid, which can be reached by both Etihad from Abu Dhabi and Emirates from Dubai.

The trip

Geodyssey’s (Geodyssey.co.uk) 15-night Nicaragua Odyssey visits the colonial cities of Leon and Granada, lively country villages, the lake island of Ometepe and a stunning array of landscapes, with wildlife, history, creative crafts and more. From Dh18,500 per person, based on two sharing, including transfers and tours but excluding international flights. For more information, visit visitnicaragua.us.

RESULTS

5pm: Maiden (PA) Dh 80,000 (Turf) 1,200m
Winner: AF Majalis, Tadhg O’Shea (jockey), Ernst Oertel (trainer).

5.30pm: Maiden (PA) Dh 80,000 (T) 1,400m
Winner: Sawt Assalam, Szczepan Mazur, Ibrahim Al Hadhrami.

6pm: Maiden (PA) Dh 80,000 (T) 1,400m
Winner: Foah, Fabrice Veron, Eric Lemartinel.

6.30pm: Wathba Stallions Cup Handicap (PA) Dh 70,000 (T) 1,400m
Winner: Faiza, Sandro Paiva, Ali Rashid Al Raihe.

7pm: Handicap (PA) Dh 80,000 (T) 1,600m
Winner: RB Dixie Honor, Antonio Fresu, Helal Al Alawi.

7.30pm: Rated Conditions (TB) Dh 100,000 (T) 1,600m
Winner: Boerhan, Ryan Curatolo, Nicholas Bachalard.

If you go

The flights
Return flights from Dubai to Santiago, via Sao Paolo cost from Dh5,295 with Emirates


The trip
A five-day trip (not including two days of flight travel) was split between Santiago and in Puerto Varas, with more time spent in the later where excursions were organised by TurisTour.
 

When to go
The summer months, from December to February are best though there is beauty in each season

LA LIGA FIXTURES

Saturday (All UAE kick-off times)

Valencia v Atletico Madrid (midnight)

Mallorca v Alaves (4pm)

Barcelona v Getafe (7pm)

Villarreal v Levante (9.30pm)

Sunday

Granada v Real Volladolid (midnight)

Sevilla v Espanyol (3pm)

Leganes v Real Betis (5pm)

Eibar v Real Sociedad (7pm)

Athletic Bilbao v Osasuna (9.30pm)

Monday

Real Madrid v Celta Vigo (midnight)

The biog

Name: James Mullan

Nationality: Irish

Family: Wife, Pom; and daughters Kate, 18, and Ciara, 13, who attend Jumeirah English Speaking School (JESS)

Favourite book or author: “That’s a really difficult question. I’m a big fan of Donna Tartt, The Secret History. I’d recommend that, go and have a read of that.”

Dream: “It would be to continue to have fun and to work with really interesting people, which I have been very fortunate to do for a lot of my life. I just enjoy working with very smart, fun people.”

Europe’s rearming plan
  • Suspend strict budget rules to allow member countries to step up defence spending
  • Create new "instrument" providing €150 billion of loans to member countries for defence investment
  • Use the existing EU budget to direct more funds towards defence-related investment
  • Engage the bloc's European Investment Bank to drop limits on lending to defence firms
  • Create a savings and investments union to help companies access capital

'How To Build A Boat'
Jonathan Gornall, Simon & Schuster

Super Rugby play-offs

Quarter-finals

  • Hurricanes 35, ACT 16
  • Crusaders 17, Highlanders 0
  • Lions 23, Sharks 21
  • Chiefs 17, Stormers 11

Semi-finals

Saturday, July 29

  • Crusaders v Chiefs, 12.35pm (UAE)
  • Lions v Hurricanes, 4.30pm
A State of Passion

Directors: Carol Mansour and Muna Khalidi

Stars: Dr Ghassan Abu-Sittah

Rating: 4/5

RESULTS

6.30pm Al Maktoum Challenge Round-1 Group One (PA) US$65,000 (Dirt) 1,600m

Winner RB Money To Burn, Fabrice Veron (jockey), Eric Lemartinel (trainer).

7.05pm Handicap (TB) $175,000 (Turf) 1,200m

Winner Ekhtiyaar, Jim Crowley, Doug Watson.

7.40pm UAE 2000 Guineas Trial Conditions (TB) $100,000 (D) 1,600m

Winner Commanding, Richard Mullen, Satish Seemar.

8.15pm Singspiel Stakes Group Two (TB) $250,000 (T) 1,800m

Winner Benbatl, Christophe Soumillon, Saeed bin Suroor.

8.50pm Handicap (TB) $135,000 (T) 1,600m

Winner Zakouski, William Buick, Charlie Appleby.

9.25pm Al Maktoum Challenge Round-1 Group Two (TB) $350,000 (D) 1,600m

Winner Kimbear, Pat Dobbs, Doug Watson.

10pm Dubai Trophy Conditions (TB) $100,000 (T) 1,200m

Winner Platinum Star, Christophe Soumillon, Saeed bin Suroor.

10.35pm Handicap (TB) $135,000 (T) 1,600m

Winner Key Victory, James Doyle, Charlie Appleby.

Scores

Scotland 54-17 Fiji
England 15-16 New Zealand

The Breadwinner

Director: Nora Twomey

Starring: Saara Chaudry,  Soma Chhaya,  Laara Sadiq 

Three stars

PRIMERA LIGA FIXTURES

All times UAE ( 4 GMT)

Saturday
Atletico Madrid v Sevilla (3pm) 
Alaves v Real Madrid (6.15pm) 
Malaga v Athletic Bilbao (8.30pm) 
Girona v Barcelona (10.45pm)

Sunday
Espanyol v Deportivo la Coruna (2pm) 
Getafe v Villarreal (6.15pm) 
Eibar v Celta Vigo (8.30pm)
Las Palmas v Leganes (8.30pm)
Real Sociedad v Valencia (10.45pm)

Monday
Real Betis v Levante (11.pm)

Juventus v Napoli, Sunday, 10.45pm (UAE)

Match on Bein Sports

US Industrial Market figures, Q1 2017

Vacancy Rate 5.4%

Markets With Positive Absorption 85.7 per cent

New Supply 55 million sq ft

New Supply to Inventory 0.4 per cent

Under Construction 198.2 million sq ft

(Source: Colliers)

The specs

AT4 Ultimate, as tested

Engine: 6.2-litre V8

Power: 420hp

Torque: 623Nm

Transmission: 10-speed automatic

Price: From Dh330,800 (Elevation: Dh236,400; AT4: Dh286,800; Denali: Dh345,800)

On sale: Now

How to donate

Send “thenational” to the following numbers or call the hotline on: 0502955999
2289 – Dh10
2252 – Dh 50
6025 – Dh20
6027 – Dh 100
6026 – Dh 200

If you go

The flights
Emirates (www.emirates.com) and Etihad (www.etihad.com) both fly direct to Bengaluru, with return fares from Dh 1240. From Bengaluru airport, Coorg is a five-hour drive by car.

The hotels
The Tamara (www.thetamara.com) is located inside a working coffee plantation and offers individual villas with sprawling views of the hills (tariff from Dh1,300, including taxes and breakfast).

When to go
Coorg is an all-year destination, with the peak season for travel extending from the cooler months between October and March.

The Freedom Artist

By Ben Okri (Head of Zeus)

Dr Afridi's warning signs of digital addiction

Spending an excessive amount of time on the phone.

Neglecting personal, social, or academic responsibilities.

Losing interest in other activities or hobbies that were once enjoyed.

Having withdrawal symptoms like feeling anxious, restless, or upset when the technology is not available.

Experiencing sleep disturbances or changes in sleep patterns.

What are the guidelines?

Under 18 months: Avoid screen time altogether, except for video chatting with family.

Aged 18-24 months: If screens are introduced, it should be high-quality content watched with a caregiver to help the child understand what they are seeing.

Aged 2-5 years: Limit to one-hour per day of high-quality programming, with co-viewing whenever possible.

Aged 6-12 years: Set consistent limits on screen time to ensure it does not interfere with sleep, physical activity, or social interactions.

Teenagers: Encourage a balanced approach – screens should not replace sleep, exercise, or face-to-face socialisation.

Source: American Paediatric Association
SHOW COURTS ORDER OF PLAY

Centre Court (4pm UAE/12pm GMT)
Victoria Azarenka (BLR) v Heather Watson (GBR)
Rafael Nadal (ESP x4) v Karen Khachanov (RUS x30)
Andy Murray (GBR x1) v Fabio Fognini (ITA x28)

Court 1 (4pm UAE)
Steve Johnson (USA x26) v Marin Cilic (CRO x7)
Johanna Konta (GBR x6) v Maria Sakkari (GRE)
Naomi Osaka (JPN) v Venus Williams (USA x10)

Court 2 (2.30pm UAE)
Aljaz Bedene (GBR) v Gilles Muller (LUX x16)
Peng Shuai (CHN) v Simona Halep (ROM x2)
Jelena Ostapenko (LAT x13) v Camila Giorgi (ITA)
Jo-Wilfried Tsonga (FRA x12) v Sam Querrey (USA x24)

Court 3 (2.30pm UAE)
Kei Nishikori (JPN x9) v Roberto Bautista Agut (ESP x18)
Carina Witthoeft (GER) v Elina Svitolina (UKR x4)

Court 12 (2.30pm UAE)
Dominika Cibulkova (SVK x8) v Ana Konjuh (CRO x27)
Kevin Anderson (RSA) v Ruben Bemelmans (BEL)

Court 18 (2.30pm UAE)
Caroline Garcia (FRA x21) v Madison Brengle (USA)
Benoit Paire (FRA) v Jerzy Janowicz (POL)

THE TWIN BIO

Their favourite city: Dubai

Their favourite food: Khaleeji

Their favourite past-time : walking on the beach

Their favorite quote: ‘we rise by lifting others’ by Robert Ingersoll

Subscribe to Beyond the Headlines
RESULTS FOR STAGE 4

Stage 4 Dubai to Hatta, 197 km, Road race.

Overall leader Primoz Roglic SLO (Team Jumbo - Visma)

Stage winners: 1. Caleb Ewan AUS (Lotto - Soudal) 2. Matteo Moschetti ITA (Trek - Segafredo) 3. Primoz Roglic SLO (Team Jumbo - Visma)

RESULTS: 2018 WORLD CUP QUALIFYING - EUROPE

Albania 0 Italy 1
Finland 2 Turkey 2
Macedonia 4 Liechtenstein
Iceland 2 Kosovo 0
Israel 0 Spain 1
Moldova 0 Austria 1
Serbia 1 Georgia 0
Ukraine 0 Croatia 2
Wales 0 Ireland 1

What can you do?

Document everything immediately; including dates, times, locations and witnesses

Seek professional advice from a legal expert

You can report an incident to HR or an immediate supervisor

You can use the Ministry of Human Resources and Emiratisation’s dedicated hotline

In criminal cases, you can contact the police for additional support

Key figures in the life of the fort

Sheikh Dhiyab bin Isa (ruled 1761-1793) Built Qasr Al Hosn as a watchtower to guard over the only freshwater well on Abu Dhabi island.

Sheikh Shakhbut bin Dhiyab (ruled 1793-1816) Expanded the tower into a small fort and transferred his ruling place of residence from Liwa Oasis to the fort on the island.

Sheikh Tahnoon bin Shakhbut (ruled 1818-1833) Expanded Qasr Al Hosn further as Abu Dhabi grew from a small village of palm huts to a town of more than 5,000 inhabitants.

Sheikh Khalifa bin Shakhbut (ruled 1833-1845) Repaired and fortified the fort.

Sheikh Saeed bin Tahnoon (ruled 1845-1855) Turned Qasr Al Hosn into a strong two-storied structure.

Sheikh Zayed bin Khalifa (ruled 1855-1909) Expanded Qasr Al Hosn further to reflect the emirate's increasing prominence.

Sheikh Shakhbut bin Sultan (ruled 1928-1966) Renovated and enlarged Qasr Al Hosn, adding a decorative arch and two new villas.

Sheikh Zayed bin Sultan (ruled 1966-2004) Moved the royal residence to Al Manhal palace and kept his diwan at Qasr Al Hosn.

Sources: Jayanti Maitra, www.adach.ae

Pad Man

Dir: R Balki

Starring: Akshay Kumar, Sonam Kapoor, Radhika Apte

Three-and-a-half stars

Fixtures

Tuesday - 5.15pm: Team Lebanon v Alger Corsaires; 8.30pm: Abu Dhabi Storms v Pharaohs

Wednesday - 5.15pm: Pharaohs v Carthage Eagles; 8.30pm: Alger Corsaires v Abu Dhabi Storms

Thursday - 4.30pm: Team Lebanon v Pharaohs; 7.30pm: Abu Dhabi Storms v Carthage Eagles

Friday - 4.30pm: Pharaohs v Alger Corsaires; 7.30pm: Carthage Eagles v Team Lebanon

Saturday - 4.30pm: Carthage Eagles v Alger Corsaires; 7.30pm: Abu Dhabi Storms v Team Lebanon

Asia Cup Qualifier

Final
UAE v Hong Kong

Live on OSN Cricket HD. Coverage starts at 5.30am

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