The former prison in Goa that's now India’s ‘oldest, newest cultural hub’

Aguad Port & Jail Complex showcases the state's rich legacy, as well as its Portuguese past

Aguad Port & Jail Complex in Goa was built as a defensive stronghold for the Portuguese against the Dutch. Photo: Waterfront Experiences

Overlooking the choppy waves of the Arabian Sea, the Aguada Fort served as a beacon for vessels entering Goa during the Portuguese era. Strategically located near the bay of Old Goa and Panaji, it played a crucial role during the time when Goa was known as “Little Lisbon” and the “Rome of the East” due to its prosperous trade.

The fort, a defensive stronghold for the Portuguese against the Dutch and Marathas, derives its name from the Portuguese words "Agua" (water) and "Da" (gives), pronounced as "Aguada" in Konkani, the local language.

Former Portuguese prime minister Antonio de Oliveira Salazar converted the fort into a place of incarceration in the 1930s. All those against the Portuguese regime were persecuted and imprisoned in the fort, where they were punished and tortured. After Goa was liberated by the Indian armed forces in 1961, it served as Goa’s central jail until 2015, housing notorious prisoners, including Charles Sobhraj, the notorious serial killer.

Today, nestled amidst swaying coconut palms and blue waters, the decommissioned prison has been reinvented as a thriving arts and culture hub. The 400-year-old Aguad Port & Jail Complex now showcases Goa’s unique past, along with the state’s rich and vibrant culture.

“The transformation was fuelled by a deep respect for Goa's history and the desire to create a space that reflects the essence of Goa," says Naveen Chopra, group chief executive of Waterfront Experiences, the company that operates and maintains the complex.

“We aim to showcase this rich history and culture, and bring it to life. Everything is curated towards that, right from the recently launched state-of-the-art digital museum, with rare content such as the documentaries on Goa’s forts and freedom struggle that are showcased daily,” Chopra adds.

Waterfront Experiences works closely with the Government of Goa, along with Goa Tourism Development Corporation, to create a place where visitors can discover the location's rich culture.

The Aguad Interactive Museum, for example, has three immersive sections – Goa: The Land, The Struggle, and The People – that bring to life the rich tapestry of Goa's past. The museum uses QR-coded audio guides, interactive exhibits, and state-of-the-art kiosks to showcase the sights and sounds of the state’s heritage.

At Aguad Cinema, located in the kaal kothri or condemnation cell, documentaries that spotlight the state’s history and culture are screened every day. At present, two documentaries are being screened: Freedom Movement of Goa, which recounts the struggle against Portuguese colonialism, and Forts of Goa, which showcases the historical and architectural significance of these solid sentinels.

Heritage walks are also available by day or night, offering historical insights as one explores the jail complex, taking in the sombre cells, former kitchen areas, a serene chapel, and a historic freshwater spring.

There are currently three exhibitions at the complex. Indian Fashion, Timeless Elegance, celebrates intricate craftsmanship while Sahitya Chitravali, showcases a blend of literature and the art world. The third exhibition, Kamal, connects visitors with India’s culturally versatile flower, the lotus.

Since its launch, Aguad has hosted a number of cultural events, including the NDFC Film Festival, the Spic Macay: Shruti Amrut Festival, G20 Delegate Events and numerous art shows and music concerts.

Aguad’s recent collaboration with the Fashion Design Council of India in February resulted in an unusual fashion show, where designs were showcased on the "jetty-ramp". An exhibition that celebrated the life and work of Bhanu Athaiya, India’s first Oscar winner for costume design, also received rave reviews.

A range of eateries have also opened their doors, and work as refuelling pit stops for visitors and dining destinations for locals. In the Warehouse Block, the Black Sheep Bistro provides a cosy ambience and fast food, while Motley Brew brews coffee-infused cocktails and mocktails. On the waterfront, D Sailor is the place to wind down the day, with seafood and classic options. Namaste Chai serves a range of tea blends, while De’Bee serves Goan cuisine with a modern twist.

State Tourism Minister Rohan Khaunte believes Aguad will enrich Goa’s vibrant array of tourist experiences by seamlessly blending technology with engaging storytelling. “It artfully communicates the essence of Goa – its people, culture, history, and the pursuit of freedom,” he says.

Captured by Afonso de Albuquerque in 1510, Goa served as the capital of the Portuguese Empire east of the Cape of Good Hope for 450 years. It became an important trade hub for Eastern spice trade, even inspiring a Portuguese proverb: “He who has seen Goa need not see Lisbon".

Over the years, as the Portuguese continued to rule, they created a lasting influence on Goan culture, architecture and cuisine. The struggle for Goa's freedom intensified in the 1940s, as India fought for its own independence. Liberation came 14 years later, with the Indian Army’s successful "Operation Vijay".

Chopra calls Aguad Port & Jail Complex “the oldest, newest cultural hub in the country”.

"Aguad isn’t a place for only tourists visiting Goa; it also allows locals to learn more about their history and culture,” he says.

The reinvention of the prison complex as a repository of Goa’s history is important as most people outside of the state are unaware of its Portuguese history, says Shefali Nautiyal, a visiting tourist.

“We have all learnt British history at school since they ruled across India, but Goa’s Portuguese history doesn’t really come up. This complex beautifully amalgamates the past and present, showcasing that India’s sunshine state is more than just sun, sea, and sand," she says.

For centuries, Aguada Fort served as a beacon to passing ships. Today, it stands tall as a beacon of Goan history and culture.