Caroline Seikaly's SS15 collection is now available at Galeries Lafayette, The Dubai Mall. (Courtesy of Caroline Seikaly)
Caroline Seikaly's SS15 collection is now available at Galeries Lafayette, The Dubai Mall. (Courtesy of Caroline Seikaly)

Q&A with fashion designer Caroline Seikaly



Beirut-based designer Caroline Seikaly recently visited the UAE to launch her SS15 collection. Read our Q&A with the French-American designer who talks about what inspires her, the difference between French and Lebanese fashion, and what it was like to work with Karl Lagerfeld and Christian Lacroix.

What was the inspiration behind your SS15 collection

It was a mix of James Bond and Uma Thurman in Pulp Fiction. Very 1960s.

How do you go about designing a collection?

I’m usually first inspired by the beautiful fabrics I find. I love Italian prints and French lace and I’ll typically buy from the same manufactures. In my current collection I use this beautiful French lace with velvet on it — it looks like graffiti. I then take the colours from the fabrics and from there the collection starts to build. I don’t typically pick a specific theme, though. I use to do that years ago, but that was more of a school thing. And it helps. But now that I’ve had a lot of experience and I’m older, I find I’m more inspired by music and movies. Things just mesh in my mind and a collection comes out.

You say that you became interested in a couture at a very young age. Why do you think this was the case?

I grew up in Potomac, Maryland where there really wasn’t a fashion scene. Just the pool and a lot of horses! But we’re all artists in my family. My sister is a painter, my other sister is an architect and my great-grandmother was a costume designer for the Moulin Rouge and Follies in Paris during the 30s. So fashion and art is basically in our blood. It wasn’t a case of me looking at fashion and thinking “oh I want to do that”. It came about more naturally. Also, I use to watch a lot of old movies like Singing in the Rain and I loved people like Marilyn Monroe, Gene Kelly and Fred Astaire. I also use to dance and do ballet at the Potomac Dance Center. So more specifically, my love for couture came from movies and dance.

As you use to dance, can we see an element of movement in your designs?

Yes. My favourite thing to do is floaty dresses, especially muslin dresses. Think Isadora Duncan. Anything really that shows the female form, which I’m really interested in. I always think, “how can I make you [the customer] look beautiful”? I don’t go and try to reinvent something or create some weird concept. I want the women who wear my dresses to look and feel beautiful.

You lived in France for 10 years and currently live in Beirut. What would you say is the difference between the style in Paris as opposed to Beirut?

It’s more natural in Paris. French women don’t put a lot of effort into the way they dress. When they get dressed, it comes from within. They pick things that they feel comfortable in and matches their personality. They’re more modern, more avant garde. It doesn’t matter what people say. The Lebanese women, however, are a bit more coquet. They want the bag, the shoes, the dress, the hair style — they really want to look good and for them it’s about the whole package.

You worked with Christian Lacroix and Karl Lagerfeld. What was that like?

I went to Lacroix for a six month internship and worked for Lagerfeld for seven years. It was amazing. I got really lucky because they’re complete opposites. I was very much like Lagerfeld initially, very architectural, very graphic, and very into black and white. I wasn’t very good with colour at the time. So when I went to Lacroix, he was very different. A lot of draping and colours. I was amazed. Now, though, I really try to mix both into my collections.

As you frequently travel to the UAE, how would you describe the local fashion scene?

They’re all fashionistas. They love their fashion here and it’s become like a small fashion capital. Women here definitely follow the European and American trends.

Caroline Seikaly is available at Galeries Lafayette, The Dubai Mall.

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%3Cp%3E-%20April%2017%2C%202013%3A%20A%20bipartisan-drafted%20bill%20to%20expand%20background%20checks%20and%20ban%20assault%20weapons%20fails%20in%20the%20Senate.%3C%2Fp%3E%0A%3Cp%3E-%20July%202015%3A%20Bill%20to%20require%20background%20checks%20for%20all%20gun%20sales%20is%20introduced%20in%20House%20of%20Representatives.%20It%20is%20not%20brought%20to%20a%20vote.%3C%2Fp%3E%0A%3Cp%3E-%20June%2012%2C%202016%3A%20Orlando%20shooting.%20Barack%20Obama%20calls%20on%20Congress%20to%20renew%20law%20prohibiting%20sale%20of%20assault-style%20weapons%20and%20high-capacity%20magazines.%3C%2Fp%3E%0A%3Cp%3E-%20October%201%2C%202017%3A%20Las%20Vegas%20shooting.%20US%20lawmakers%20call%20for%20banning%20bump-fire%20stocks%2C%20and%20some%20renew%20call%20for%20assault%20weapons%20ban.%3C%2Fp%3E%0A%3Cp%3E-%20February%2014%2C%202018%3A%20Seventeen%20pupils%20are%20killed%20and%2017%20are%20wounded%20during%20a%20mass%20shooting%20in%20Parkland%2C%20Florida.%3C%2Fp%3E%0A%3Cp%3E-%20December%2018%2C%202018%3A%20Donald%20Trump%20announces%20a%20ban%20on%20bump-fire%20stocks.%3C%2Fp%3E%0A%3Cp%3E-%20August%202019%3A%20US%20House%20passes%20law%20expanding%20background%20checks.%20It%20is%20not%20brought%20to%20a%20vote%20in%20the%20Senate.%3C%2Fp%3E%0A%3Cp%3E-%20April%2011%2C%202022%3A%20Joe%20Biden%20announces%20measures%20to%20crack%20down%20on%20hard-to-trace%20'ghost%20guns'.%3C%2Fp%3E%0A%3Cp%3E-%20May%2024%2C%202022%3A%20Nineteen%20children%20and%20two%20teachers%20are%20killed%20at%20an%20elementary%20school%20in%20Uvalde%2C%20Texas.%3C%2Fp%3E%0A%3Cp%3E-%20June%2025%2C%202022%3A%20Joe%20Biden%20signs%20into%20law%20the%20first%20federal%20gun-control%20bill%20in%20decades.%3C%2Fp%3E%0A
The specs

Engine: 1.5-litre turbo

Power: 181hp

Torque: 230Nm

Transmission: 6-speed automatic

Starting price: Dh79,000

On sale: Now

The Brutalist

Director: Brady Corbet

Stars: Adrien Brody, Felicity Jones, Guy Pearce, Joe Alwyn

Rating: 3.5/5

Mercer, the investment consulting arm of US services company Marsh & McLennan, expects its wealth division to at least double its assets under management (AUM) in the Middle East as wealth in the region continues to grow despite economic headwinds, a company official said.

Mercer Wealth, which globally has $160 billion in AUM, plans to boost its AUM in the region to $2-$3bn in the next 2-3 years from the present $1bn, said Yasir AbuShaban, a Dubai-based principal with Mercer Wealth.

Within the next two to three years, we are looking at reaching $2 to $3 billion as a conservative estimate and we do see an opportunity to do so,” said Mr AbuShaban.

Mercer does not directly make investments, but allocates clients’ money they have discretion to, to professional asset managers. They also provide advice to clients.

“We have buying power. We can negotiate on their (client’s) behalf with asset managers to provide them lower fees than they otherwise would have to get on their own,” he added.

Mercer Wealth’s clients include sovereign wealth funds, family offices, and insurance companies among others.

From its office in Dubai, Mercer also looks after Africa, India and Turkey, where they also see opportunity for growth.

Wealth creation in Middle East and Africa (MEA) grew 8.5 per cent to $8.1 trillion last year from $7.5tn in 2015, higher than last year’s global average of 6 per cent and the second-highest growth in a region after Asia-Pacific which grew 9.9 per cent, according to consultancy Boston Consulting Group (BCG). In the region, where wealth grew just 1.9 per cent in 2015 compared with 2014, a pickup in oil prices has helped in wealth generation.

BCG is forecasting MEA wealth will rise to $12tn by 2021, growing at an annual average of 8 per cent.

Drivers of wealth generation in the region will be split evenly between new wealth creation and growth of performance of existing assets, according to BCG.

Another general trend in the region is clients’ looking for a comprehensive approach to investing, according to Mr AbuShaban.

“Institutional investors or some of the families are seeing a slowdown in the available capital they have to invest and in that sense they are looking at optimizing the way they manage their portfolios and making sure they are not investing haphazardly and different parts of their investment are working together,” said Mr AbuShaban.

Some clients also have a higher appetite for risk, given the low interest-rate environment that does not provide enough yield for some institutional investors. These clients are keen to invest in illiquid assets, such as private equity and infrastructure.

“What we have seen is a desire for higher returns in what has been a low-return environment specifically in various fixed income or bonds,” he said.

“In this environment, we have seen a de facto increase in the risk that clients are taking in things like illiquid investments, private equity investments, infrastructure and private debt, those kind of investments were higher illiquidity results in incrementally higher returns.”

The Abu Dhabi Investment Authority, one of the largest sovereign wealth funds, said in its 2016 report that has gradually increased its exposure in direct private equity and private credit transactions, mainly in Asian markets and especially in China and India. The authority’s private equity department focused on structured equities owing to “their defensive characteristics.”

Formula Middle East Calendar (Formula Regional and Formula 4)
Round 1: January 17-19, Yas Marina Circuit – Abu Dhabi
 
Round 2: January 22-23, Yas Marina Circuit – Abu Dhabi
 
Round 3: February 7-9, Dubai Autodrome – Dubai
 
Round 4: February 14-16, Yas Marina Circuit – Abu Dhabi
 
Round 5: February 25-27, Jeddah Corniche Circuit – Saudi Arabia
A State of Passion

Directors: Carol Mansour and Muna Khalidi

Stars: Dr Ghassan Abu-Sittah

Rating: 4/5

Europe’s rearming plan
  • Suspend strict budget rules to allow member countries to step up defence spending
  • Create new "instrument" providing €150 billion of loans to member countries for defence investment
  • Use the existing EU budget to direct more funds towards defence-related investment
  • Engage the bloc's European Investment Bank to drop limits on lending to defence firms
  • Create a savings and investments union to help companies access capital
THE SPECS

Cadillac XT6 2020 Premium Luxury

Engine:  3.6L V-6

Transmission: nine-speed automatic

Power: 310hp

Torque: 367Nm

Price: Dh280,000

Results

1. Mathieu van der Poel (NED) Alpecin-Fenix - 3:45:47

2. David Dekker (NED) Jumbo-Visma - same time

3. Michael Morkov (DEN) Deceuninck-QuickStep   

4. Emils Liepins (LAT) Trek-Segafredo

5. Elia Viviani (ITA) Cofidis

6. Tadej Pogacar (SLO UAE Team Emirates

7. Anthony Roux (FRA) Groupama-FDJ

8. Chris Harper (AUS) Jumbo-Visma - 0:00:03

9. Joao Almeida (POR) Deceuninck-QuickStep         

10. Fausto Masnada (ITA) Deceuninck-QuickStep